Pícara, my Hazardous Zero-9 Merlin Rocket build and a Keith Callaghan design, was successfully launched and sailed this morning on Lake Travis, near Austin, Texas, USA. She gracefully sailed in light winds and quickly responded to mild gusts.
More photos, videos and a big blog update (after a year in hiatus) will come in the days ahead!Pícara and I on launch day.
Pícara after her first sail.
A little bit of bubbly...
2015 - The Missing Files (Coming Soon!)
Varnishing The Decks
I selected EPIFANES Clear Gloss Varnish for being a traditional marine varnish, based on tung oil, phenolic-modified alkyd resins and having maximum U.V. absorbers. Being in Texas and going sometimes through significant temperature variations within a single day, not to mention the hot Texas Summer, I wanted a product that not only had the ability to handle our weather but also had superior flow, gloss and durability.
Preparation, per Epifanes, included sanding the deck and rails, and cleaning the clear epoxy thoroughly with alcohol and Epifanes Thinner.
Thinning ratio varies depending on the the number of coats applied. No sanding is needed if re-coated within 72 hrs.
I used a good quality, clean, natural bristle brush and applied 4 coats of Epifanes varnish.
The product is very easy to apply and results are of great quality if instructions are followed.
I'm very pleased with the high gloss finish she now displays.
Perhaps the most expensive aspect of boat building, and for a good reasons: Safety & Performance . It can't be said enough, choosing the right rigging hardware is key for accomplishing both. Buying parts as the build progresses can save money and help offset the big cash outlay at the end. Many of the suppliers have discounts throughout the year and I took advantage whenever possible.
For Pícara, I followed the recommended hardware listed in Keith Callaghan's drawings. In some cases where the exact part was not available in the US or in the UK, I consulted with Keith to select a comparable or better replacement. Hardware wood screw holes or machine screw holes were filled with epoxy and 404 High-Density filler, which is a thickening additive developed for maximum physical properties in hardware bonding where high-cyclic loads are anticipated
The cam cleats and the cheek blocks were bolted through the brackets.
Bow tank deck covers fitted with stainless steel screws and recommended silicon sealant.
Ronstan 5/8" jib track x 18" fitted with corresponding track ends.
Allen Webbing Bridges (2" Grey) were fitted on the plan landings to secure the buoyancy bags.
Starboard side Harken H306 & H302 wire through deck blocks and covers for the shrouds and lowers.
Port side Harken H306 & H302 wire through deck blocks and covers for the shrouds and lowers.
The Tiller & Rudder Stock
These parts for the Merlin Rocket are relatively easy to source in the UK. In the US, however, this is not the case. After an extensive search and contemplating the costs of buying one from the UK and shipping it over to the US, I decided to build my own until I can source one (new or used) for a reasonable price.
Having some extra marine plywood, mahogany and epoxy available from the build, made my decision a bit easier. The design requirements were simple; a breakaway system of relatively light weight but strong enough to house the rudder blade.
For the specific measurements and characteristics, I used advanced composite models as reference. Here, I start by laying out the rudder case assembly shape and fitting the 27mm mahogany spacers to house the 25mm rudder blade. Above the case is a pocket for the tiller carbon tube.
Once the spacers where fitted, I applied three coats of epoxy resin to the entire rudder case.
After cutting the breakaway radius, I simulated the movement of the rudder inside the case and found out I had to make slight modifications to allow the free movement of the rudder blade.
Almost there... I had to cut the aft spacer of the rudder case at an angle where the trailing edge of the rudder blade swings inside the case during breakaway.
I drilled a 10mm hole at the pivot point on the rudder blade. Since the pivot point was at the trailing edge of the foil, I cut a 27mm carbon fiber spacer from a 10mm carbon fiber tube. Later, I inserted the carbon fiber spacer with epoxy and colloidal silica to make a strong rudder blade screw hole. I also applied three coats of epoxy resin to the exposed radius on the rudder blade.
Here's a view of the rudder case with a slot on top for the carbon tiller tube and screw holes to secure it. The pintle and gudgeon screwed onto the case at the right location after fitting their equivalents on the transom. I also cut 10mm carbon tube inserts for the pivot screw holes.
An aft view of the rudder box showing the single block for the control line to keep the rudder down under way.
Clearance test over the transom in all directions for the tiller's 1m x 30mm O.D. / 26mm I.D. carbon tube.
Installation of the Ronstan Battlestick carbon tiller extension and camcleat for the rudder control line.
The final article less the rudder blade.